Issue 4
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Table of Contents:
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1. All About Herbs
Yes, everyone finds this topic fascinating and most folks use herbs in their daily diet. But to grow them profitably and to get an idea of which ones to grow, some particulars must be noted (other than those already noted in our book on hydroponics).
It goes without saying that you need a market - and you need to know what that market wants. For example, in many cases its not profit- able to grow the common mints since they are mostly available at just about everyone's garden or doorstep. To get a good idea of what herbs to grow, check with your local grocer and see what he stocks and what he has to toss out because it doesn't sell.
Hydroponically grown herbs, when done correctly (see our book on growing hydroponically on a shoestring), can have better taste and more flavor oils than the same herbs grown in soil. This is a boon to the average grower because most chefs like fresh herbs which can be supplied on a daily basis. And the average housewife can also be supplied with potted herbs such as basil, oregano, mint or marjoram. These herbs can be pinched back for use and will re-grow again.
Other herbs can be re-seeded when harvested. The main thing, if you plan to sell to chefs or markets is to make sure you can grow the plants all year round. Since a big seller such as basil doesn't grow well in hot weather, you'll need to keep the greenhouse at a temper- ature of 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, especially during summer. According to one grower, most herbs do well when the pH is around 6.8 and the EC around 2,000. (EC stands for Electrical Conductivity - you can get a meter to measure this important requirement which determines how elements will flow from one point to another.)
Warmer or hot climes may have to use a chiller-type aerator to keep the nutrient solution temperature at a lower level. Remember that the roots are, to a great extent, what a plant is all about. What goes on at root level is what results at topside.
Growth methods vary from growing in long 2 inch deep trays to spacing at about eight inches for each plant in 3 inch PVC piping. Seeds are sown directly in the trays, whereas transplants are placed into 3/4 inch holes already drilled in the PVC piping. The seeds are rather small, so it's best to sow them into a a peat-lite or coarse perlite mix.
The nutrient solution can be the same as that used for lettuce which is usually something like 5-5-5 or 10-10-10. (As you know, the first figure stands for percentage of nitrogen content, the second for phosphate and the third for potash.) Most fertilizer mixes obtained from hydroponic suppliers will also contain the necessary micro nutrients.
A one and a half horsepower pump which is used for shallow wells can be used for pumping the nutrient solution throughout a 30,000 square foot greenhouse such as that described in our book on hydroponics.
When planning for the market, don't forget the UPC market codings and any insurance to cover all liabilities. Of course, the insurance should be included in all growing costs, not just herbal ones.
Bear in mind that fresh-cut herbs have an appeal all year round and
can be a standby moneymaker for the entire year.
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2. Herbs and aquaculture
Much has been said about aquaculture where you not only raise fish but also herbs and other plants in the same container or area. Basil is an herb which lends itself readily to this type of growing.
The Chinese raise carp among the different plants they incorporate in the plan. Most growers now believe that leafy type crops are easier to raise with fish than fruiting types like tomatoes or cucumbers. The reasoning behind this is that fruiting plants require a lot more feed than leafy or herbaceous types. Still other growers do just as well with fruiting plants.
The decision is based mainly on what's selling and the profit margin. If basil gets undercut in price from competitor marketing, then per- haps raising tomatoes or some other crop will be justified.
In many cases the fish are a secondary crop; the plant or fruit crop earns most of the income. Nevertheless, the fish are there for two purposes, for profit from their sale and to fertilize the plant crops.
The effluent from the fish "tank" is allowed to flow over gravel
based plant beds. Most growers just allow the effluent to go directly
to the hydroponic beds without being filtered. They rely on the
bacteria in the beds and the plant roots to filter out harmful mater-
ials. The effluent water is purified by this process and returned
to the fish tanks.
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3. What's Going On...
If you don't believe there's money to be made in hydroponics, don't tell the people at Village Farm Greenhouses. They most likely will laugh in your face. And believe it or not, they do it all with tomatoes. Presently, the management does it all with beefsteak and cluster or "on-the-vine" varieties.
The company has over eight growing sites with nearly 200 acres of growing space. Their locations are at: Village Farms of Texas, Ft Davis, TX; Village Farms of Marfa, Marfa, TX; Village Farms of Buffalo, Buffalo, NY; Village Farms of Wheatfield, N. Tonawanda, NY; Village Farms of Virginia, King George, VA; Foster farms, Marion Heights, PA and Keystone Village Farms, Ringgold, PA.
In Florida, at the John E Polk Correctional Facility, near Orlando, the inmates raise their produce with hydroponics. And it's all done in the recreation yard which is 100 ft x 60 ft with high walls on three sides and open at one end. The walls are painted white which accesses more light since the open side faces east. The open area above was covered with material which lets in light but keeps out heavy rains.
All in all the program has become a big success.
NASA has come up with a product which in many ways mimics the bene- fits of hydroponics but without the machinery that goes with hydro- ponics. The NASA product is like zeolite which is a soil mix that stores and gives a time release to its nutrients.
This new product, now being sold commercially, is a new type of
fertilizer which avoids pollution from runoff and still gives high
fertility.
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4. Plant Root Facts
A. Like most living things on this planet, oxygen is a vital factor in growth. In the case of plants, oxygen is the generator of life. That's why farmers like a loose, rich soil to help promote rapid, strong growth. The same is true in hydroponics. The medium which holds up the plant must be strong enough to hold the plant but loose enough to promote oxygen flow or aeration.
The nutrient solution must be constantly aerated to maintain a high oxygen level. And in such systems as the Israeli Ein-Gedi aeroponics is a prime feature. Here the roots are sprayed continually with the nutrient solution which has been oxygenated. (See page 93 of our book on hydroponics.)
B. An extensive root system, while vital in soil culture, does not necessarily need to exist in hydroponic operations. This is true if you are using NFT or some other system such as noted above. Why is this true? Because the roots do not have to go far afield to collect nutrients and oxygen. The solution being sprayed upon or flowing past the roots furnishes all the plant's needs so far as the root system is concerned.
C. There are three stages of plant growth, each of which require different fertilizer and lighting needs. The first stage is the rooting stage - when you take a slip from an adult plant and root it in perlite or vermiculite to grow a new plant.
The second stage is vegetative which is when the plant takes on leaves and structure and begins to grow.
The third stage is the flower or fruiting stage.
D. Air roots are the ones near the top of the root system and must
not be continually immersed in water as the lower or water
roots which can be wet at all times. Healthy roots are white
and firm. Roots which have problems will have brown tips or
start to turn brown all over. Such coloration indicates disease
or not enough oxygen. That's why stagnant water will not do -
it doesn't have adequate oxygen for necessary plant vigor and
growth.
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5. Rearing Crickets
Not having much to do with hydroponics, crickets are included here just because we have the information on hand. They do make good fish bait and someone among you might find it interesting to rear them for fun and profit.
Crickets come in various species, but the two most easily produced for our domestic markets are the ordinary house cricket and the field cricket. When fully matured they are about 1 inch long and come in two colors: black and brown. Their gender is easily spotted: the female has an egg-laying lance which extends out from the abdomen, whereas the male has none.
Cricket nymphs ( the young) look like their parents but must go through 7 skin moltings before they become adult.
Conditions favorable for egg-laying:
Temperature range = 80 through 90 degrees. ( All temperatures are Fahrenheit.) Damp, cool soil or sand. Eggs hatch in 16-26 days. Temperature at 86 degrees will get the eggs to hatch in 15 days.
Rearing principles:
Normally, you should start out on a small scale. Get your original supply from an outside source. Most bait shops have plenty of crickets on hand. Have a holding box on standby for the adult crickets. You'll need separate boxes for each batch or brood you plan to rear. It takes more than 8 weeks to complete the hatching process.
To get the necessary 86 degree temperature for breeding, place excelsior feed, water and heating source in each box. You'll need at least a thousand crickets in the breeding stage to start. Get these through a local source, if available, or better yet through the growers of various insects which are listed in the following directory.
"Suppliers of Beneficial Organisms in North America", by Charles D Hunter, California Environmental Protection Agency, Department of Pesticide Regulation, 1020 N Street, Room 161, Sacramento, CA 95814-5604
If you're going to have anything at all to do with insects, you'd better write and get this directory. It will be come in handy.
Most commercial growers only allow eggs to be laid for a day or two for each brooding pan so they won't have to fool with grading. But if you allow egg-laying to continue for 10-12 day you get more crickets which mature from day to day but which will need grading.
Whatever method you use, at the end of the selected egg-laying period place the pan which contains the eggs into a brooder box. The eggs will begin to hatch after 13 or 14 days. DO NOT have eggs hatching in the same box which contains the adults. Keep records on each breeding box so you know what to expect.
You can raise crickets in just about any type of container but the easiest to use is a box-like structure. Sizes vary but the most popular are those with dimensions of 15"x24"x48" or 15"x24"x96". The smaller box will rear about 8-9,000 crickets to adult size. Do not overcrowd. If you do the crickets will not be full-sized.
Always screen the openings at the tops of the boxes, not only to prevent your crop from climbing out and escaping but also to protect them from various predators, among which are mice and other insects. Some growers suggest a high gloss enamel for the upper inside 4 inches. Vaseline or petroleum jelly applied in the corners will help keep the younger crickets from escaping.
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6. While We're At It...
I suspect most of you have subscribed from our hydroponics pages. So you may be unaware of all the good (free!) information available at our gourmet salad greens site at (http://www.mayhillpress.com/salad2.html) and our beneficial insects site at (http://www.mayhillpress.com/insects2.html).
Check them out. You'll find quite a bit of free information at each
site. What's more, they both fit in with hydroponics.
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bsaffell@mayhillpress.com...Last Update: 52008 copyright 1996 - 2008 by Hilmur Saffell
WE HAVE THREE BOOKS THAT MAY BE OF INTEREST TO YOU.
They are as follows:
"How to Start on a Shoestring and Make a Profit with Hydroponics"
"Big Dollars Growing Gourmet Salad Greens"
"Beneficial Insects - How to Mass Rear and Make a Profit"
If you would like a copy or copies of your own,
CLICK HERE